Monica's Travel Blog

Europe 2007

Thanks for checking out my blog! I will do my best to update it as frequently as possible. This will, of course, be more difficult when I am traveling so expect more steady updates once I reach Madrid.

Also, please email me and stay in touch! I would love to hear from all of you! I miss you all very much!

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
-Mark Twain

Thursday, October 18, 2007

“First we fight, then we party!” – A weekend in San Sebastian

El País Vasco- enough said. This past weekend, myself along with about 10 other friends had the opportunity to travel to San Sebastian. Without exaggerating whatsoever, it was quite the weekend…

We arrived in San Sebastian early Friday on October 12th, el día de España, a national holiday. After waiting around for the bus for an hour (they don’t run as frequently on holidays), we finally made it to the center of the city, Alameda del Boulevard. We then proceeded to wander about the square from La Playa de la Concha all the way to the river in search of our hostel. After about an hour we finally found our home for the weekend, dropped off our bags and started our day. Well so we thought… Holidays also mean most stores aren’t open. With that said we spent the morning café hopping – drinking coffee and conversing in true Spanish fashion. After an afternoon of siesta we again met up with our friends for lunch. I told you I was getting used to the Spanish ways! But this is where the story gets good…

We’re sitting in the café and around 5:00 pm, we start to get kicked out and are wondering what is going on...it’s too late for siesta for them to close. As we walk out on to the street, we look to the left to see an entire brigade of police in full uniform, including large guns and gas masks. After starting to get nervous, we then look to the left to see protestors- true Basque country protestors, waving the Basque flag, holding up Antifascist signs, yelling for a free, independent Basque country on this National Holiday in Spain. The only thing that goes through our mind is MOVE and FAST. We start walking/running towards the police along with others, caught in a furry of not knowing what is going on or even what to do! We end up finding a spot (and by that I mean a nook in the wall) to get away from the danger. For about twenty minutes, we’re standing in this nook watching police shoot large rubber balls (my friend Aubrey was hit by one reflecting off a dumpster-oww) and protestors throwing large rocks in return. We finally decide it is safe enough to move, and walk down the street, turn the corner only to see more protestors, dumpsters turned over, and crowds of people everywhere. We finally duck into a café, where we proceed to stay for the next hour or so. The action continues, and we have front row seats as the situation continues to intensify. After about an hour and a half, we decide it’s safe to go outside and wander a bit more. We can’t go back to our hostel yet as the entire center square including the town hall is roped off. This is insane. We finally watch as the police untie the ropes and the drama, about three hours later, has come to an end with streets littered, over-turned dumpsters on fire in ever corner, and life slowly easing back to the norm once again…


















Welcome to San Sebastian, right? What a day…

We head back to my friend’s hostel, and just sit. We are all so overwhelmed, a little shook up, and very excited! Everyone’s calling home, and we continue to tell the story over and over again, and it simply feels surreal. Every Spanish class I’ve ever had has talked about the Basque’s passionate desire for independence and we were in the middle of it. We then decide going out that night isn’t the best idea. Of course, again in true Spanish style, we start talking to a guy that works at the hostel, and he asks, “Why aren’t you going out?” We explain everything, and he say’s, “What? It’s okay. Two or three times a month, we fight, and then we party!” What country is this? We spend the night out and about in the city meeting various people and d iscovering the main discoteca on La Concha Beach called “La Rotunda.” After getting home at 6 am again (so this isn’t just a Madrid thing?), we head to bed to wake up to beautiful Saturday.

After Friday’s adventure, the remainder of the weekend was much more low key and relaxing. We took advantage of this weekend but truly using it as a vacation instead of running up and down the city sight-seeing. Saturday including shopping, enjoying amazing food, walking

along the boardwalk, and again, heading out at night- including meeting many people, stopping in a place pronounced (not sure how you spell it), Etche Kalde, filled only with locals speaking all in Basque, finding another amazing discoteca, this one on Playa de la Zurriola, called ZM, and finally heading home late again. We woke up early Sunday to a short day filled with nothing but the beach… San Sebastian is known for its surfing, and I can guarantee you, we saw plenty of it. On my list of things to do before I die is learn how to surf in Malaga- this weekend truly inspired me. We boarded our bus Sunday evening and made it back to Madrid late, exhausted after an unforgettable day and two beautiful days of hanging out near the beach. I would go back to San Sebastian, and if you get the chance, I would definitely recommend going- it’s gorgeous! The culture is so distinct from the rest of Spain, and the city has so much energy to offer. Just maybe avoid going on national holidays… Or go on a national holiday and have the experience of a lifetime- just be safe. :o)


Everything in Madrid continues to go well. School has started to pick up, so I am no longer feeling like a lazy bum :o) (as soon as I was starting to embrace it of course… go figure). Senora and I have also started to bond much more. We had a full conversation about ETA and Spanish politics in general following our trip to San Sebastian, and it was amazing to hear her perspective. With the elections coming up in March 2008, everyone has been remembering the last elections and the train bombings of March 11, 2004 in the Atocha station in Madrid. It has been very interesting to watch the news and hear the different perspectives from the socialist party (currently in power) and el Partido Popular. This along with reading the newspaper everyday, “Viente Minutos” a.k.a the free newspaper on the way to school every morning, has truly helped me feel more connected to the city and the country as a whole.

Despite the more serious political conversations, life continues to be very comical. Jess and I had a five-minute long conversation about soup with our senora. We were trying to figure out what the soup was made of, and tell her we liked asparagus so she knew for the future. It took us another ten minutes or so to figure out the soup was made from asparagus (or esparrogos in Spanish… you’d think we’d be able to figure that one out just by hearing it right? Apparently not…), which she told us the night before. And for future reference, turns out there are white as well as green “esparrogos,” not making this conversation easier… It was quite the dinner.

We also have three girls from Germany staying with us for the week. They are traveling throughout Madrid with their University. Needless to say, it’s been a very full house. They have been a little quiet but nice to get to know. Tonight, I think they are going to join us and experience the nightlife of Madrid so it will be nice to talk to them some more.

Es todo para ahora! Vamos a Granada esta fin de semana y estoy segura que será muchos cuentos para la semana proxíma! (That’s all for now! We are going to Granada this weekend, and I am sure there will be many stories for next week!)

Besitos,

Monica

Sunday, October 14, 2007

Estamos Madrileños ahora.

It’s been about two weeks in Madrid and life has finally begun to settle down. Along with that I have quickly begun to fall in love with the Spanish lifestyle. The people are so friendly, there is always something to do, and life here is so much more relaxed. In an effort to catch up on everything, I'll go through the basics first : life at home, classes, and school, and then of course all the exciting adventures we have had to far.

Our senora continues to be amazing. Over the past week I have been able to get to know her and her family better, as well as practice my Spanish (have I mentioned she doesn't speak any English?) and learn about Spanish culture. She has lived in Madrid most of her life and therefore has great advice on everything for us including discos to find at night, holidays, and Madrid's most popular sights. She, like many other Spanish women of her generation, is always making sure we are eating enough (come mas, come mas!), sleeping enough including post-lunch siesta, and taking full advantage of our time here. She never asks for our help in cleaning or other house chores, and while I understand this is part of the culture, I almost feel bad having her, what in my mind seems like a lot, work so much for us. I'm quickly learning that this is what she is used to and for her it isn't necessarily more work, just part of her lifestyle. I'm taking a class entitled "Women's Roles in Spain," and it has been very interesting see our lectures in the classroom reflected in my senora and other Spanish women.

Speaking of classes... It's only been two weeks, and I'm very quickly beginning to feel lazy. Between my very relaxed class schedule and no homework, I'm realizing I'm going to need to find something to do with all my free time. I've been embracing it for now and getting to learn the city, yet this has been something very different to get used to. I'm taking four classes here: International Marketing, International Communications, Women's Roles in Spain, and Arte en el Museo del Prado (Art in the Prado Museum). I only have one and a half hour of class on Monday and Tuesday, a six hour break in between two classes on Wednesday, and four hours of class on Thursday. Friday's are off except for some in which we visit the Prado Museum for my art class. As you can see, with no homework yet, time has not been an issue... :o) Instead, we've been eating, sleeping, and spending money- welcome to Madrid, haha.

My overall impressions of the city thus far have been great, and I can't wait to see how the next two and a half months will continue. Until my next update, I'll share with you some of the more notable experiences (although there have been plenty!) from the two weeks...

Chocolate con Churros: The Nightlife

Madridleños have a thriving passion for life, and they say this is reflected in the renowned nightlife of the city, supposed to be one of the best in Europe- it took about, oh less than a week, for us to quickly learn why. This past weekend, after seeing Madrid at night Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, we are quickly getting to know the discotecas and the places to be including Dubliner's, O'Connell's Street, Palacio Gaviria, Joy Enslava, and Kapital just to name a few. For those of you that have studied in Madrid, I'm sure these names bring back great memories. Nightlife in Madrid truly doesn't being until around midnight with tapas and sangria, moving to a disco around 2 or 3 in the morning when the crowds hit. Both Friday and Saturday night this weekend, we proceeded to take the metro home (at 6 in the morning!) along with crowds of others, and could easily have stayed out later... no wonder siesta exists. I was talking to my senora this week and she says she only needs about three hours of sleep a night, and she's probably around sixty years old. When I told her I left Sol at 6, getting home at 7 am, she said (translated from Spanish), "Oh my, we used to get home around 5 or 6 am, but I guess times are changing." :o) Feel free to make your own impressions, but I think I may have found my city.

One of the renowned traditions after a long night out in a discoteca is going to a Chocolateria for chocolate and churros- it really is as amazing as it sounds, especially at 4 or 5 in the morning.




Daytrip to Toledo

About an hour an half south of Madrid is Toledo, the former capital of the Holy Roman, Visigoth, and Muslim empires. Today, Toledo still has many cathedrals, synagogues, and mosques reminiscent of the time when all three religions dominated. The city's many hills wind around the monuments in small, alley-like streets filled with restaurants and shops boasting Toledo's renowned swords and marzipan (actually mazapan, a tradition begun in Toledo in 1212).

Once inside the walls of the city, we had the opportunity to tour a convent, see San Juan de los Reyes (la sinagoga) in the city's Jewish quarters, la Mezquita, and of course see "El entierro del Señor de Orgaz," the most infamous painting of El Greco. After a day of touring the city and taking in the stunning sites, we ended our day with wandering the streets and sampling the marzipan.


Corrida de toros: The Bullfight

Bullfighting season in Spain lasts from March through October. Our arrival in Madrid marked one of the last few weekends of the year the events would take place. With that said, this past Sunday we attended a Corrida de toros (bullfight) with a "It's now or never" mind sight. As it's such an important part of the culture of Spain, we walked into the event open minded, however it is never a experience I will have again. If you ever attend a bull fight, I highly suggest thoroughly reading about them before hand in order to appreciate and focus on the traditions and aethetics of the sport rather than the blatant grotesqueness.

The "Plaza del Toros" is located in Las Ventas, Madrid. After coming up from the Metro, the sheer size of the stadium is overwhelming. Built in 1931, the stadium sits 25,000 people, and the day we went, it was full. Each bull fight involves three toreros (bullfighters) and six bulls, two bulls per torero. The toreros are judged based on the aesthetics, the time until death, and the assistance required. When they say it is a fight until death- they aren't kidding. Having arrived a little late, we did not enter the stadium until the second bull. However seeing one was enough for me to handle. After watching the bull being stabbed in the neck for the first of many times my heart immediately lurched, and I knew this was not going to be a pleasant experience. At one point during the fight, the bull managed to gain control and literally threw the torero into the air by his horns. My heart again sank as I watched a man being thrown without knowing what the ultimate outcome would be... Needless to say after fulling watching one bull, I had had enough. Throughout the remainder of our time there, I had to force myself to think of the cultural experience paying more attention to the attire of the torero, his movements, and the intricate process involved in this historic sport. Knowing this was a once in a lifetime experience, I do not regret going, yet this is never something I would like to repeat. Those are only my opinions though, I understand the significance this has in the culture, and feel free to make your own judgments.


Sightseeing in the city: Templo de Debod and Palacio Real

Living within a large European city automatically equates to culture overload. With that being said the first week has been filled with getting to know the different Plazas, discovering the importance of large, random buildings, and simply taking it all in. More to come soon on these two sites as they are very impressive with their history and grandeur…